Category: Staff News


1/15/2015 | New Stuff, Staff News
Helen Sinclair

Hometown: Auckland or Christchurch NZ
Hobbies: Baking and decorating cakes (see
Music: Supports NZ music; Kora, Lord, Fat Freddys Drop
Vacation: Opito Bay in Coromandel NZ, family, sun, sand and surfing.
Movie: Valley Uprising
Book: Currently Alex and I are crazy about the Gimme Kraft book …..
Quote: “There’s no such thing as I can’t reach” or/and “Its not about having the ‘balls’ to do it, it’s about not having them!”
Climbing since: briefly in 1996-break-2004

Helen has been an invaluable member of our coaching team since she joined us at the beginning of our bouldering season. Not only is she passionate about helping people improve their own climbing, the is a pretty awe-inspiring climber who leads by example.

She’s an experienced comp climber who won a National Championship in her native New Zealand.

She’s climbed The Nose of El Cap in under 24 hours.

And she’s projecting the The Great Red Roof outside of Vegas (watch this video of her).

Helen brings amazing energy to her coaching work, with great balance between technique and fitness. She’s very driven to train, and you’ll often find her at The Spot working out upstairs or projecting problems on the floor. She also is an EMT and works Ski Patrol at Eldora. Check out her blog

We caught up with her and got her feelings on a few things:

Why did you join the team at The Spot?

I was introduced to the Spot (and Alex Stiger) about 5 years ago when I visited my then future husband in Boulder. It didn’t take long before I realized Boulder and Josh and The Spot were the perfect combination for me. I trained at The Spot and became part of the furniture, so it wasn’t long before I became integrated (or should I say infiltrated?) The Spot team as a Coach.

What do you love about working at The Spot so far?

When I was growing up my coach was one of my most important mentors. I feel that now after climbing for so many years it’s time to give something back to the sport. More than anything, our coaching team at The Spot is interested in the development of our athletes, we are all on the same page with that goal. When they win we win with them, when they fall we are there to help them up, we all have that same mentality – it’s about seeing our athletes be the absolute best they can be.

Why do you climb?

Because I love it and I can’t stop – even if I wanted to.

Where do you hope to be in 5 years?

Hmmmm… 5 years seems to go pretty fast as I get older, so I would imagine still in Boulder, and still training at The Spot, but there will have been a few trips along the way…

Anything else you’d like to tell folks?

Try your best at everything, even if its just warming up, or even resting, practice well, train hard, and performance will follow. If you are in need of a motivation injection come see me at The Spot – I have plenty to share.



Alex Stiger

Alex began climbing at 16 in Texas, moved to Boulder at 20, and was an integral part of our staff here at The Spot for several years. After leaving to pursue a professional career outside of climbing, she realized that climbing and training are her main passion in life and recommitted herself to climbing not only as an activity but also as her career.

Alex brings years of training, fitness, and competitive experience to her new position. In addition to climbing competitively, she’s been a competitive chess player since the age of 14 and also practices and competes in dancing. She is an avid consumer of all the latest climbing and training literature and has designed our curriculum based on the knowledge she has gleaned from her studies and from fellow coaches and trainers. Alex is extremely excited to bring her knowledge to The Spot team to help climbers of all ages and abilities achieve their potential and have fun doing it.

Hometown: Killeen, Texas
Hobbies: Chess, Breakdancing
Music: Almost everything
Vacation: Anywhere I travel to for climbing, chess, or dancing. My favorite climbing destinations so far are The Red River Gorge, KY and Bishop, CA.
Movie: Spirited Away
Book: Chess Books
Quote: “To give the maximum effort at the precise moment it is needed. This is power.” – Fred Nicole
Climbing since: I first went climbing when I was 15 years old while on a chess cruise to Alaska, one of the “not chess day” options was the climbing wall.

Why did you join the team at The Spot?
When I decided to move to Boulder from Texas in 2009, my goal was to work at the Spot. The Spot has become my family away from home for the 3+ years I have been part of the team.

What do you love about working at The Spot so far?
Being immersed in climbing culture. The Spot represents Bouldering from the inside out.

Why do you climb?
Why I started to climb was because I thought it was a fun way to get super fit, achieve goals and make friends. I am still climbing because somewhere along the way I became a climber and can’t imagine ever doing anything else.

Where do you hope to be in 5 years?
5 years from now, I hope to still be Head Coach at the Spot, have climbed V10, 5.13+, and be a chess master.


8/15/2013 | For Kids, Staff News
Ian Dory

We’re excited to announce Ian Dory has been selected to be the Head Coach for The Spot Climbing Team!

Ian will be partnering with Josh Paton to bring The Spot an even higher level of coaching and training. Ian will be focusing on the hands on day to day of coaching while Josh hammers out all of the administrative aspects of managing our team.

After several years of working at The Spot as a coach and setter it’s great to see him stepping up to this important role. He’ll be working side by side with Josh and all the same great coaches you’ve gotten to know, but with some fresh energy to improve our team program this season. Ian will be handling curriculum planning, technical coaching as well as high-end training.

Ian has been climbing pretty much since he was born, and it has always been a defining aspect of his life. He has sent some of the hardest problems in the world and put up cutting-edge first ascents. Ian hopes to continue climbing hard and developing amazing and hard problems, as well as accomplish personal goals such as making the USA Bouldering Team and winning a World Cup.

Outside of climbing Ian enjoys working on the family farm, playing the drums, hanging out with his wife and playing with his dog. He loves giving back to the climbing community and enjoys clean ups at Hueco and Rifle. Ian promotes the Access Fund and enjoys educating and working with the next generation of climbers as a coach and motivator. He is also a full time student working towards a degree in finance with investment dreams as well.

Ian’s mantra: “Motivation is what drives me, passion is what makes me, and sending is what I live for.”

Checkout his website:

Congrats to Ian on this new position!

Josh, Ian, and the rest of the coaches are looking forward to seeing all of you at Tryouts!